Jewish and Roman Artichokes

If you love artichokes, Italy offers a delicious variety of ways to prepare them. Besides the marinated versions in jars familiar to Americans, Roman restaurants serve two traditional artichoke ("carciofo" in Italian) dishes:  "carciofo alla romana" and "carciofo alla giudio".  That is, artichokes Roman style or artichokes Jewish style. 

Roman style artichokes are stewed with a meat broth or olive oil broth. Jewish style is fried. The Jewish style produces salty fried artichoke pedals that taste very similar to potato chips. The picture shows both versions. 

The Two Roman Capitals

It is striking to see the differences between the ruins of ancient Rome and ancient Constantinople (now Istanbul). When the Roman Empire fell in the West in 476 CE, it continued in the East until 1453 CE. Western historians use a historiography (how a history is told) that the Roman Empire fell in 476 CE and label the continuing Roman civilization in the eastern Mediterranean as "Byzantine" as if it was a new empire.  It wasn't, but the continuing Roman Empire centered on Constantinople did continue to develop and evolve through the Middle Ages into something different than ancient, classical Roman civilization.  And it was a Christian Roman world affiliated with Eastern Orthodoxy.  

To those living in the former western Roman provinces and even Rome itself, Rome as they knew it had fallen. The Dark Ages had come, and the ruling Church was Roman Catholic. Western European history continues this perspective until this day. It's the historiography America inherited. 

Ironically, it was probably these Christian 'barbarians' from the former Western Roman Empire that mortally wounded the final Roman world in the East. Western Catholic Crusaders led by Venice betrayed and sacked Christian, Eastern Orthodox, Greek-speaking Constantinople in 1204 during the 4th Crusade. Some estimate 2/3s of the world's wealth at that time was then in Constantinople. 

The Crusaders then installed a series of Latin Emperors until ousted by the locals.  The Crusaders did a huge amount of damage and looting to Constantinople.  The four bronze horses that now adorn St. Mark's Basilica in Venice were looted from Constantinople. (The originals are now in a Venetian museum.)  The last Latin emperor of Constantinople even stripped the Imperial Palace of its metal roof tiles and sold them. 

Crusaders also chopped off the head of a metal serpent statue in the Hippodrome. The coiled, headless relic remains in Constantinople to this day. 

The city never recovered, and when the Turks finally conquered the city in 1453, much of the old Imperial Palace and Roman city were in ruins.  Still, Istanbul remained a vibrant city with a large population that rebuilt and maintained important parts of the Roman city.  The Hagia Sophia is the most famous surviving building.

Rome, however, didn't fare as well. By the 1300s much of the city was abandoned. Local families fortified ancient buildings during the Dark Ages. The return of the popes from Avignon in France in the late 1300s set off a building boom with the papal powers basically using the old Roman buildings as a quarry for pillars, marble, statues, mortar, etc.  So the Roman Forum and other once huge structures in Rome are in fairly bad shape. The structures that remain mostly intact like the Pantheon often survived by being converted into churches. 

Jewish Slaves of Rome

The Colosseum was a sad site to us. Knowing that people paid to watch other people tortured and executed there was sobering. 

Some of you may know this already, but the Colosseum was primarily financed by loot from the sacking of the Jewish Temple and Judaea by the Romans around 70 CE.  The Jews revolted, and Emperor Vespasian crushed the revolt. The Temple was burned and looted.  Thousands of Jews were sold into slavery and provided the slave labor that built the Colosseum.  Vespasian's son, Diocletian, built an arch honoring his father and brother Titus that depicts Roman soldiers carrying a gold menorah and loot from the Temple. The Arch of Titus is nearby in the ruins of the Roman Forum. 

After the Colosseum we walked through the Forum. I don't recall the Forum requiring a ticket in 2001 but it does now. 

Trash in Italy: A Puzzle

Today was a day of great personal triumph for today the local Manziana solid waste authority deemed my garbage worthy of collection. This triumph comes after two rejections of my previously unworthy trash and one written note chastising my waste as non-conforming.  

For you see, taking out the garbage is a rather high stakes, adult affair in Italy.  Each home has not one, not two, but FIVE small, bucket-sized trash bins. Each one is for a very specific type of trash. 

The mysterious, pre-dawn garbage authority is yet unseen by me, but he?  she?  apparently come SIX days a week in a dizzying kaleidoscope of recycling and home solid waste sorting.  It took me a week before a tip from my young Italian friend Gianluca alerted me that this mysterious note taped up in the kitchen was a veritable Rosetta stone to a deeply held mystery of Italian life. Indeed, when I asked Gianluca via text which bin to use for trash, he responded he didn't know because he lived with his parents, and that they took care of it. So it became clear that trash is a very adult concern here. I became concerned there might even be age limits and so to be safe I deal with the trash instead of young Nathan. 

But Gianluca did say the trash people come six days a week with different days for different bins.  A light went off and suddenly the note below became clear!

Yes indeed.  Monday is for "umido" or damp trash. It goes into the brown bin marked "biologica".  Tuesday is for "carta" or paper and goes in the white bin. Wednesday is a rather important day when both glass and aluminum get fetched from the green bin. Thursday is more biologic vegetable peels, fruit cores and spoiled meat. Friday is a regular fiesta with plastics in the yellow bin and the unclassified mixed bag that makes up "indifferentizada" or something like that. These indifferent waste items that refuse to be easily sorted and recycled go into the gray bin. 

It all seemed so clear...

But then came another excited trip to the gate and another mournful discovery of unworthy and uncollected trash. Why oh why is my biologic waste not good enough?  How are my carrot tops and olive pits proving to be non-conformist?

Another fretful text with Gianluca reveals "biologica" have to be in special bags. It turns out last week's rotting chicken is fine. It's the plastic bag that holds it that faces the stern rejection of the Manziana trash authority. 

So I was careful to only put plastic things in a plastic bag and leave them out on a Thursday night in a yellow bin.  And triumph!  Friday morning's bright sunshine revealed the yellow bin outside the gate was empty.  Could the Apostles have felt more joy at that empty sepulcher?! 

And now it is time to up my game.  I went to the local grocery and in a dark corner found a pack of biological bags. Tonight's food scraps are safely encased in a said bag and lovingly placed in the brown bin. I have set it outside the gate tonight in hopes that Santa Trashman will soon be here and that at last my trash will conform in the right combination of bag, bin and day so that I will have won the Biologica World Cup of Garbage!!

Dracula's Gay Brother and the Sultan

Here is a fascinating bit of history I learned while in Istanbul:


RADU THE FAIR:  This story is great and actual history.  It turns out that Vlad III, the historic and bloody Prince (king actually but called Prince) of Wallachia better known by his nickname of Dracula, had three brothers. When his Christian father made a pact with the Ottoman Sultan to gain his throne, Dracula's father sent young Vlad and his handsome young brother Radu to the Sultan's court as hostages. The two brothers were raised with the Sultan's son Mehmet. They studied together. Radu grew up to be very handsome and charismatic. He was nicknamed Radu the Fair, and Mehmet pursued him. They are said to have become lovers.  

The two brothers lives diverged. Vlad hated school at the court and rebelled often. So he was often punished severely. Radu converted to Islam and became a leader of the elite Ottoman Jainassary troops. Vlad eventually became Prince of Wallachia -renowned for torturing prisoners while he ate.  He switched sides and opposed the Ottomans.  When the Sultan sent in troops Vlad and his army slaughtered 20,000 Turkish men, women and children by impaling them and leaving a forest of their bodies to scare off the Turks. It worked in scaring off the Ottoman troops. So the Sultan called in Radu to take care of Dracula.  

The brothers battled and became known in Turkish legend as the Blood Brothers.  Radu drove out Vlad Tepes (Vlad the Impaler) who fled to Hungary. Radu became Prince allied with the Ottomans and appears to have had a fairly prosperous reign until his untimely death around age 40.  He also assisted Mehmet in conquering Constantinople.  Thus is the story of Dracula's brother and Mehmet the Conqueror. 

The Children of Lilith

Our friend Javid told us an interesting piece of folklore I thought I would share:

LILITH:  You may have heard of Lilith, Adam's first wife in Jewish and later Christian and Muslim legend. Stories say she wouldn't submit to Adam and left him. Then God made Eve.  What I didn't know was that in Muslim legends Lilith has red hair and redheads are teased sometimes about being Lilith's descendants. 

Grocery Shopping in Italy

Probably my favorite thing to do when I travel is to shop for groceries. I love seeing all the unique foods. As the world becomes sadly ever more uniform, grocery stores stand out with special regional quirks. In New Mexico the stores have large sections dedicated to chilis and tortillas. In Spain there are while refrigerated coolers for gazpacho.  

As you can imagine, the local grocery stores here are like gourmet stores in the US:  exotic pastas, wines, olives, meats, and cheeses. The pastas are both dried and refrigerated. 

Today we walked to the local Carrefour (a French grocery chain by the way). I asked Nathan to go have a cappuccino in the store's coffee shop so he wouldn't rush me through this fantasy land of epicurean delights.  I found ravioli stuffed with Gorgonzola cheese and almonds (dinner later this weekend) and my favorite pasta shape, "radiatore" or radiators. They are barrel-shaped with ridges and hold sauces well.  All kinds of goodies!

But perhaps the most amusing pasta name here is "strozzapreti" which translates as priest stranglers or priest chokers. The name supposedly comes from using this shape to feed the always big-appetited priest when he was invited over. This pasta was sure to choke even a hungry clergyman. 

I finally got to see and try strozzapreti last night at Il Sorcetto. Roberta, our friendly waitress, recommended it "alla Gricia" which is with pancetta or bacon. The shape of the pasta is like a worm or very thick spaghetti. The dish was delicious for dinner and leftovers for lunch. 

Nathan got the tortelloni filled with meat and served with a truffle cream sauce. Very rich dish. It takes is awhile to order with our phones' dictionaries in hand. 

Tonight was Friday night and we made sandwiches and a caprese salad at home. The fresh buffalo mozzarella was delicious and cost $2. So cheap compared to the US. 

Dessert was a delicious and perfectly ripe cantaloupe drizzled with Balsamic vinegar. Yum. 

World War II Memorial in Manziana

The day before yesterday we were walking to the grocery and noticed this marker at the point where our street connects to Via Roma, one of Manziana's main streets. This spot is maybe 100 feet from Giulio's house. 

It turns out to be a marker commemorating four US soldiers killed during World War II on June 7, 1944.  Next week is the 70th anniversary of their deaths. Of the four men, one is from Georgia and another from Kentucky. Kind of wild coincidence.  I think I will get some flowers and leave them in honor of the men. 

I asked Gianluca if Italians -who under Mussolini were Axis allies with Hitler- viewed the Americans as invaders or liberators. He said it depends on a person's politics. Contemporary Italians who supported Fascism or see/saw it as a good period for Italy view the Americans as invaders. Others -as with this memorial- as liberators. 

Street Food in Istanbul

Istanbul is full of delicious street food. Here are some examples:

Vendors sell a variety of seasonal fruits. Besides apples and bananas, this one is selling cherries and fresh, green plums. These plums are tart and crisp. At first I thought they were small, green tomatoes. 

My favorite street food, however, comes from the food carts that sell freshly squeezed juices. Orange ("portakal") juice is common. My favorite though is pomegranite ("nar"). Typical prices are 1-5 Turkish lira (TL).  2 TL = $1. 

"Simit" is similar to a sesame bagel except it is thinner, drier, and less chewy. 

Food carts also sell roasted corn on the cob and roasted chestnuts. 

I don't have a photo of a guy selling "midye dolmas", but they are another common street food. These "mussel dolmas" are a cooked mixture of fresh mussels, rice, and spices served on a mussel shell. The other half of the shell is put on top. For days I thought these food carts were selling whole mussels in the shell until I had midye dolmas in a restaurant.  The midye dolmas are delicious and are normally eaten with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. So you'll see a stand of mussel shells and lemons. That will be the midye dolma stand. 

You may have noticed I referred to all the vendors as he. That is because I never saw a female food vendor and rarely any female shopkeepers. 

Dining Etiquette in Turkey

One of the most challenging things about travel is figuring out the cultural rules around basic transactions.  For example, when and how much do you tip?

Living in a particular country it is easy to take for granted that your local custom is the norm everywhere.  So today's post is about navigating Turkish and American cultural differences and expectations around service in a restaurant. 

First, let's review the American version.  Customers walk by a restaurant and decide whether they wish to enter or not. Beyond a menu and welcome sign, rarely will a restaurant employee be outside hawking the cafe to passing potential patrons.  

When you enter a smiling host sits you. A smiling server takes your order and then delivers your food.  Refills on drinks are usually free, and your server regularly checks to see if you need anything.  The server usually asks if you are finished before taking your plate or glass. Finally the server will usually ask if you want a dessert and if you are ready for your bill. You pay, and the server thanks you for eating at this restaurant. The guest is expected to leave 10-20% of the bill's total additionally as a tip.  Also, because servers' minimum wage is just over $2 an hour, the server expects you to not keep a table for more than an hour or so...or to at least tip more or buy more food/drinks. 

At least, this is the general American format when you have good service. 

Our friend Javid was able to explain for us several Turkish customs that we have encountered. For example, in restaurants here a man stands out front badgering passing tourists and often Turks with menus and exhortations to try his restaurant. For us it seemed pushy and intimidating.  If you do sit down for a meal, a waiter will appear who takes you order and then brings your food. Then he disappears.  He never checks on your table and never returns with your check until you manage to flag him down.  The server rarely if ever smiles but keeps a somber, professional facial expression. It contrasts such much with the American service experience that it is easy to take this service as rudeness.  This pattern has been so consistent, however, that we felt it must be a cultural standard here.  In talking with Javid, it is indeed standard.  Turks he said would find it rude for a server to interrupt a meal by checking on them or asking if guests were ready for their check.  He has never experienced receiving a bill in a restaurant without first asking for it. 

Likewise, tipping ranges from none to 5% of the bill. 

Learning these customs can make all the difference between feeling welcomed or a feeling of being treated rudely. 

Pegasus Airlines

Pegasus Airlines is a Turkish discount airline.  The planes appear cleaner and newer than most American carriers. 

Be aware, however, that food and drink must be bought on the plane. They do not accept American Express or Visa cards without a chip (almost impossible to get a Visa with a chip in the US).  Furthermore, we paid extra for a sandwich and drink when we booked, but the flight attendant did not bring it until we were landing. She apologized. So I think ordering food with your ticket is uncommon. 

I do not mind that the airline sells food, plasters the inside of the plane with ads and runs constant shampoo commercials on the video monitors. I do find it odd being on an international flight that won't accept American credit cards. 

Pegasus, however, often has the cheapest fares and 1 checked bag up to 20kg is included in the fare. 

Tips:  carry cash and do not book a fare with a meal included. Buy additional food on the plane. Or better, pack your own food and drink. 

Pegasus Airlines

Pegasus Airlines is a Turkish discount airline.  The planes appear cleaner and newer than most American carriers. 

Be aware, however, that food and drink must be bought on the plane. They do not accept American Express or Visa cards without a chip (almost impossible to get a Visa with a chip in the US).  Furthermore, we paid extra for a sandwich and drink when we booked, but the flight attendant did not bring it until we were landing. She apologized. So I think ordering food with your ticket is uncommon. 

I do not mind that the airline sells food, plasters the inside of the plane with ads and runs constant shampoo commercials on the video monitors. I do find it odd being on an international flight that won't accept American credit cards. 

Pegasus, however, often has the cheapest fares and 1 checked bag up to 20kg is included in the fare. 

Tips:  carry cash and do not book a fare with a meal included. Buy additional food on the plane. Or better, pack your own food and drink. 

Turkish Airlines

Turkish Airlines is Turkey's award-winning national airline.  The airline has even rapidly expanding with catchy jingles and commercials featuring basketball star Kobe Bryant. 

Nathan and I flew from Amsterdam to Istanbul via Turkish Airlines. The plane was clean, new, and had luxurious legroom by American standards. They also served a hot meal. Even flying European discount airlines is eye-opening to the crappy service, lack of space and old, dirty planes foisted onto American flyers.  

Schiphol Airport

Amsterdam's Schiphol (pronounced similar to "skip-pole") is one of the busiest in the world. It is built on a former lake and is the home airport for KLM, the world's oldest continuously operating airline. 

For Americans Schiphol is a change from the usual airport procedures.  First of all, departure screens show both a number for the ticketing area where you check in as well as your plane's gate.  Also, instead of a single security check area before entering gate areas, most individual gates at Schiphol have their own security scanners.  So, one checks in, proceeds to the gate and then goes through security. 

Behold the Cheese

I love cheese, and the Netherlands is a cheese lover's paradise. Gouda cheese, however, has a special place in terms of Dutch identity. Wheels both small and huge of the famous wax-covered cheese are sold throughout the Netherlands. 

Belgian Food: A 'Sin' for Every Taste

Belgium combines French and Dutch influences -including in its cuisine. In three areas of cuisine the Belgians are famous:

Pomme Frites:  Belgians invented "pomme frites" or fried potatoes.   Alas, the French got credit and this in the US pomme frites are the ubiquitous French fries. Stands and pomme frites cafés sell pomme frites in Belgium. Traditionally the fries are eaten with mayonnaise. 

Beers:  Unlike Germany and the Czech Republic where a Medieval beer purity law keeps beer ingredients limited to a classic five elements, Belgians experiment with a broad palate of beer ingredients. Belgian inventiveness makes Belgium a smorgasbord of beer with libations that include fruit beers. 

Chocolates:  Switzerland may be more famous for the quality of its plain chocolate bars, but Belgians rule when it comes to esquisite and complex chocolate candies.  From chocolate-covered candied orange peel to exotically flavored truffles, Belgium is a chocolate lover's paradise. It's thus no accident that Godiva chocolatiers started in Belgium. 

Lira Mania

Today we walked into a local neighborhood grocery where the shopkeeper wanted to change us 55 Turkish lira for a liter of Coke and a box of sugar cubes. That's about $27!  So we asked how much the Coke was. It was 2 TL. And the sugar was 35 TL. 35 is still outrageous plus 35+2 does not equal 55 when I last checked. So we bought the Coke and left. 

The Birthplace of Freedom Fries

One of my favorite stories of politics and food involves when a conservative North Carolina Congressman forced the US House of Representatives' cafeteria to change the name of "French fries" to "freedom fries".  Why?  Because the French government refused to join the US in the debacle of invading Iraq. 

When the media asked for a response from the French embassy over renaming the fries, the response was a classicly French drole response. I don't recall the response word-for-word alas, but the response was basically that the US Congress could rename their cafeteria food as they saw fit and besides pomme frites were a Begian invention. The response made the Congressman look like a buffoon. 

And indeed the French embassy spokesman was correct:  "pomme frites",  the fried potatoes much loved by Belgians and Americans alike, are Belgium's national dish.  Whole cafés and pomme frites stands are dedicated to preparing and selling pomme frites to a hungry Belgian public. Often the frites come in a cone and are usually eaten with mayonnaise rather than ketchup. 

But just remember, like freedom, freedom fries aren't free.

Belgian Food: A 'Sin' for Every Taste

Belgium combines French and Dutch influences -including in its cuisine. In three areas of cuisine the Belgians are famous:

Pomme Frites:  Belgians invented "pomme frites" or fried potatoes.   Alas, the French got credit and this in the US pomme frites are the ubiquitous French fries. Stands and pomme frites cafés sell pomme frites in Belgium. Traditionally the fries are eaten with mayonnaise. 

Beers:  Unlike Germany and the Czech Republic where a Medieval beer purity law keeps beer ingredients limited to a classic five elements, Belgians experiment with a broad palate of beer ingredients. Belgian inventiveness makes Belgium a smorgasbord of beer with libations that include fruit beers. 

Chocolates:  Switzerland may be more famous for the quality of its plain chocolate bars, but Belgians rule when it comes to esquisite and complex chocolate candies.  From chocolate-covered candied orange peel to exotically flavored truffles, Belgium is a chocolate lover's paradise. It's thus no accident that Godiva chocolatiers started in Belgium. 

Belgian Food: A 'Sin' for Every Taste

Belgium combines French and Dutch influences -including in its cuisine. In three areas of cuisine the Belgians are famous:

Pomme Frites:  Belgians invented "pomme frites" or fried potatoes.   Alas, the French got credit and this in the US pomme frites are the ubiquitous French fries. Stands and pomme frites cafés sell pomme frites in Belgium. Traditionally the fries are eaten with mayonnaise. 

Beers:  Unlike Germany and the Czech Republic where a Medieval beer purity law keeps beer ingredients limited to a classic five elements, Belgians experiment with a broad palate of beer ingredients. Belgian inventiveness makes Belgium a smorgasbord of beer with libations that include fruit beers. 

Chocolates:  Switzerland may be more famous for the quality of its plain chocolate bars, but Belgians rule when it comes to esquisite and complex chocolate candies.  From chocolate-covered candied orange peel to exotically flavored truffles, Belgium is a chocolate lover's paradise. It's thus no accident that Godiva chocolatiers started in Belgium. 

Flemish vs. Dutch

Northern Belgium consists of Flanders.  In the Middle Ages Flanders was a collection of various wealthy merchant cities that eventually came under Spanish Hapsburg rule. The more northern provinces of the Low Countries, the nether or low lands, fought a bitter and bloody revolt under William of the House of Orange. These areas became the Netherlands.  Flanders remained under Hapsburg rule before becoming its own independent monarchy as part of Belgium. 

I asked our taxi driver what is the difference between Flemish and Dutch.  He told me the two are the same language, but that the Flemish call their language Flemish in part because a number of Flemish people don't much like the Dutch. At least, this is how our taxi driver in Brussels explained things. 

Today language and identity continue to be connected.  One guide book informed us that certain parts of Brussels favor Flemish or French. According to this book, greeting a shopkeeper or waiter in one language may offend someone whose primary language is another of Belgium's two main languages.  This morning in fact the housekeeper at the hotel greeted us with "good morning" in both Flemish and French. Strangely this has pushed me to use English as a kind of neutral ground. I'm sure people with more familiarity with Belgian life know how to tactfully bridge the dual language issues. I believe 80% of Belgians speak French as their first language -or again so I was informed by our cab driver. Online, Flemish folks on the chat apps seem to consistently list they live in the Flemish Region rather than Belgium. 

I suspect that if the move for statehood among minority nations such as Scotland, Catalunya, and the Veneto set a pattern where such regions can have a national identity within the larger EU, Flanders will eventually seek independence. 

Belgium: Europe in a Blender

Belgium fascinates me for a number of reasons. It's character is surprisingly elusive to me.  Brussels, Bruges, and the other areas of Belgium I have visited or passed through are identifiably European but not specific to a particular country I can identify. The architecture seems a mix of Dutch and French. Most people speak English along with French and Flemish.  German and French makes of cars mix together on the roads.  It's as if someone put western Europe in a blender and created Belgium. 

Of course, historically this scenario isn't that far from the truth.  Belgium combines the French-speaking Walloonia with the Flemish-speaking Flanders. Brussels is in the middle and thoroughly trilingual with international English commonly heard and seen in print. Brussels' aggregated identity makes it a perfect birthplace for the European Union. 

Travel to Europe: Jet Lag

I suspect the glory days of travel from the US to Europe were back in the days of ocean liners. Because the trip took days, it gave the human body time to adjust to the change in time zones. 

Today we strap our bodies into cramped seats for 6-8 hours of flight time.  Flights usually leave the US in the evening.  About an hour into the flight dinner will be served.  Then the lights are turned off, and passengers begin the challenge of trying to sleep.  About 1.5 hours before landing the lights come on, and the flight attendants serve breakfast. Then you land jet-lagged, excited and foggy. 

Or at least that has been my experience and the experience of others with who I have traveled.  As evidence I post this picture of a jet-lagged Nathan in Brussels' Grand Place. 

Various friends have given me advice on how to reduce jet lag. One friend consumes no caffeine on the trip. My friend Marc arrives, checks into his hotel, has lunch and walk around. Then in mid to late afternoon he takes a nap for a few hours. Then he gets up in time for dinner and a short walk before going to bed around 9-10pm. The next morning he awakes on the new European schedule. 

I find Marc's system works better than any other jet lag tricks I've tried. 

SAVANNAH: The Crab Shack

The Crab Shack on Tybee Island is a colorful local mainstay for laidback drinks and seafood. 

Starting in May...

Starting in May look for exciting updates from Europe!